Earlier this month I was down in Naples working on an exciting new project with Bonnie Alberts from Napoli Unplugged and my very talented artist friend Kelly Medford.
In-between location scouting and content brainstorming there was plenty of time for eating. Here is a list of some great places to eat in Naples.
Via Partenope 1
Sorbillo is all about the location and less about the pizza. The location can not be beat. At the beginning of the scenic and pedestrianized Lungomare with views of Capri and the castle L'Ovo. Now don't get me wrong. The pizza here is good, just not amazingly good. And when I am eating pizza in Naples (or Positano or Capri)I want amazingly good.
Piazza Carita 2
Tangy San Marzano tomatoes, milky shreds of mozzarella de bufala and crispy on the outside pillow soft on the inside crust all topped with a scattering of basil leaves are what I crave when I am in Naples. Pizzeria Mattozzi is the spot if this is you are craving that too. Kelly's well cooked steak came with all kinds of fresh vegetables, notably a zingy stack of zucchini a 'scappece.
Via Alabardieri, 30 - Piazza dei Martiri
Naples is not only all about pizza. Another Neapolitan dish I love is Genovese, which has nothing to do with basil or pesto, but is a rich meat and onion sauced pasta dish brought to Naples by workers from Genoa a generation ago. We planned a diner at Umberto in Chiaia where Genovese is a menu staple.Usually a menu staple that is. My desired dish had just been taken off the menu for the summer season. Instead I enjoyed the antipasta which was plates of polpette in tomato sauce, melanzane parmigina and the lightest, crispiest fried zucchini flower stuffed with ricotta and anchovies. This historic restaurant is wonderful with colorful modern art and friendly accommodating service.