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Pizza in Rome {La Gatta Mangione}

Last week I wrote about old school pizza in my hometown and here in Rome.  This week it is all about a modern take on Italian pizza.  


Best Hamburgers in Rome {Five Favorite places}

Hamburgers in Rome

Hamburgers in Rome

I am always on the hunt for a good burger in Rome. These are some of my favorites. 


Old School {Da Remo + Rome}

In my hometown of Oak Ridge, Tennessee, there is this pizza place called Big Ed's.

Some of my fondest childhood memories are of having dinner there and of Big Ed himself, in a flour-dusted white T-shirt sitting at the end of the bar. We kids passed the eternal wait for the pizza pressed up against the glass watching the dough and sauce get swirled by skilled teenagers and snacking on cold, crumbly pieces of pizza cheese offered to us. The place was loud, there was always a line and the pizza was blistering hot when it arrived at the table. Little has changed in the past four or so decades. It is now Ed's son at the bar, but the jukebox still takes quarters and the line on a Friday night, still snakes out the door toward the high school football field.

When I am back in Tennessee, pizza at Big Ed's is usually one of the first meals we have when we arrive and always one of the last. I have been known to travel across oceans with foiled wrapped pieces of pepperoni. 

Now I live in the place where pizza began. Pizza is a different thing here in Rome. Pepperoni are red peppers and there is no jukebox playing Hank and Dolly and Porter. What there is, however, is Da Remo. A place that feels very much like my Tennessee hometown spot. Loud and full of young servers in white t-shirts and plenty of tattoos, Da Remo in Testaccio is the Roman version of Big Ed's Pizza. This is traditional, Roman, old school pizza with cracker thin crusts and the best ordering system in town. 

On Friday nights, Da Remo even has a line that snakes out toward the piazza.

Pizzeria Da Remo
Piazza Santa Maria della Liberatrice 44
06 574 6270
Closed Sunday
Dinner only


Wordless Wednesday {Sardegna}

The skies in Rome have been unusually gray for May.  I am dreaming of Sardegna. 


Best Sweets in Rome {Five Favorite Places}

I have a wicked sweet tooth.  I am sure I got it from my grandmother, Ethel, who always had Halloween sized milky way bars stashed in the freezer and covered crystal bowls of lemon drops in the gown-ups only living room. For me a meal can hardly be counted as complete if it does not end in dessert.  

These are my five favorite places for something sweet in Rome.


A Boozy Lunch {Bancovino + Rome}

I'm a sucker for a good font.  A new enoteca located deep in the Prati neighborhood got my attention with it's simple graphics and nicely designed website.  On one of the first warm afternoons this spring I crossed the river and met a friend, to see if the good taste in design translated into a good lunch. 


TV for Washington Wonks {Gillian's List of Links}

I am a long time Washington policy geek. I went to college in DC, where the moniker - wonk  - is adopted with pride. I  studied political science. Our DVD's of the entire seven seasons of the West Wing are in danger of wearing out. I am a news junkie who watches CSpan for fun.

I haven't lived in Washington for a long time, but I am always homesick for it. Here are 3 ways I get my fictional DC fix.


When worlds collide. {Shopping in Rome + Agadez}

I have had many homes. One of the places I have lived the longest was in Africa. I lived in Africa for a long time. Roughly 15 years in both west and Southern Africa.

During my years in Niamey I met my husband, had a child and spent many many hours on straw mats drinking tea with Tuarag jewelers.


The People You Meet {Shopping in Sardegna}

The list is long of great things about traveling with a good friend.  One of the best things is when the good friend has been going to the place for a long time that you are visiting.  Even better if her friends have been going there for what amounts to a lifetime.  This means they know all kinds of things you would never ever find out and more importantly know all kinds of cool people.  That they introduce you too.