MAXXI {Museums in Rome}

The first episode of the last season of Mad Men began and ended with the song Is That All There Is? The last few shows I have seen here in Rome have been a little sparse, leaving me thinking the same thing. I guess when you are curating an exhibit for a museum in Rome it can be hard to compete with the city itself where everywhere you look is some kind of amazing ruin or architecture. Rome is a place where art is so accessible I often stop for a quick Caravaggio fix when I am running errands. Last week I hopped on the number 2 tram and went to the MAXXI, one of Rome's modern art museums to see Bellissima: Italy and High Fashion 1945-1968.

Eating in Puglia

Easter is a big deal in Italy. And I usually ignore it. We stay home, I bake trays of cinnamon rolls and we read and watch movies and maybe take a long walk or two if the weather cooperates. This year we were invited to lunch on Easter Sunday. The catch was the Easter lunch was at my friend Elizabeth’s mother in laws house in Bari, a seaside town in Puglia. The idea of a road trip sounded pretty appealing so we hit the road and headed south.

Pretty Ponza

Spring has definitely sprung here in Rome. I hear the birds chirping away outside of my my window, I have been lingering with friends over coffee in my sunny piazza cafe and my vegetable guy has piles of agretti and strawberries for sale. It is a wonderful time of year. Usually by now I have all of our summer plans figured out. I am a planner by nature. Plane tickets bought, apartments rented, meals planned out. Not this year. We know we are going to the states at some point with a wedding and a high school reunion dates to work with. I am pretty sure there will be a week on the Amalfi Coast sometime in July. But nothing is booked. Part of it is waiting to see what Noah's summer plans are and part of it is me being just a tiny bit more relaxed about things just working out. One destination I am really looking forward to visiting soon is the island of Ponza.

Where to find a little Amalfi Coast in Rome

Just like Steinbeck says, the Amalfi Coast is like a dream with it's pretty pastel houses, that breathtaking windy road, the clear sparkly sea. It can also be just a little but out of reach of an overstretched itinerary or a visit to Italy at the wrong time of year. All is not lost though. There is just enough of the Amalfi Coast right here in Rome if you know where to look.

Day Trips Near Rome {Fattoria Il Secondo Altopiano + Umbria}

Time for the morning milking at the Fattoria dell Secondo Altopiano in the Umbrian countryside. I asked Emanuele what kind of music the goats enjoyed. He answered "Sometimes it's opera, sometimes it's Pink Floyd." Today it's Samba.

A video posted by gmcguireinrome (@gmcguireinrome) on Mar 26, 2015 at 2:35am PDT

There is a lot of talk about knowing where your food comes from, how it is raised, who produces it and so on. I have read the books, listened to the podcasts. I feel like I am pretty in touch. Living in Rome makes it pretty easy. I love a trip to the countryside. Add some cute furry animals and cheese (and wine) and nothing could stop me from getting in the car.

Vivi Bistro + Brunch {Spring in Rome}

You keep using that word. I do not think it means what you think it means.

Late March and early April in Rome is a lovely but volatile time. It is usually sunny and the days are definitely warmer, but there is also sure to be a drenching storm or a cool breeze. Spring in Rome means it is not quite beach weather, but I still want to be outside. In this in-between season we head to one of Rome's prettiest parks the Villa Pamphilli. Right at the entrance on via Vitellia is Vivi Bistrot. Vivi Bistrot is a place that has a lot of things figured out. In particular serving brunch.

Day Trips from Rome {Discovering Umbria + Wine Tasting near Todi}

Last week, after three days of gray skies and relentless drizzle the sun came back and I hopped on a train with two good pals and headed to Umbria for the day.

Ristorante Flavio Velavevodetto - Prati {Eat Like a Roman}

When you live in Rome you get this email a lot. "I'll be in Rome next week and I want to eat artichokes and carbonara with you!" I love getting this email. I have a few trusty favorites that I rely on for the traditional Roman eating experience. But last week my visiting pal was staying all the way over in Prati. (Yes, when you live in Monti, Prati can seem like another city, particularly when it is raining buckets) so I had to look a little further afield. Luckily one of my absolute favorites Flavio Velavevodetto has a Prati location.