Hot as Blazes

I love Rome in August.  I love the shuttered shops with their varied chiuso per ferie signs, I love no traffic and abundant parking, I love the long, lazy, empty days.
Usually the worst of the summer heat has passed.  But. This weekend the a Caldo Africano swept in. Now I lived in Niger for six years. I am no wimp when it comes to heat but sometimes you need a break from an apartment with no AC that the thermostat registers 30 degrees at 11am. Inside.

Usually we head to the beach....but my fair haired teenager asked for a change of scenery, with AC, not at the mall. 

First Things First - Lunch

I love Pallotta.  We have come at 10:30 at night, on mondays and on a hot August afternoons, with big groups and just us...Palotta is almost always open and has a table for us.  On our last visit, American style,  a cold bottle of aqua di nepi was brought to our table without even asking!

Cold ripe figs and salty proscuitto with cold white wine under a canopy of green was a good start of our escape the heat Saturday.

Next stop - in search of a quiet air conditioned spot 

The new-ish modern art museum MAXXI - a splendid architectural piece by Zaha Hadid.  I almost prefer the buiding to the works inside. 

One of things i like best is the calm, open communal space. There was a group playing cards, several groups of tourists cooling off by the temporary pond & napping on the grass.  I love the way the sharp modern lines sweep into the surrounding classic Flaminio neighborhood buildings.

Italy goes on Holiday is a small exhibit looking at the different (or not so different) forms Italians on vacation take.

Make sure to see the top floor with the outward leaning windows. You feel like you are flying, and it is usually completely empty. 

Gelato is always
a good idea

Neve de Latte

When we lived in Balduina this was my favorite spot to stop before a dinner party.  This gelato was expensive, but boy did it wow!

The new spot  near the MAXXI is a million times chicer and just as delicious.  Only the finest ingredients sourced from around Italy are used.


Piazzale di Ponte Milvio, 22
06 3334 245
closed Wednesdays

Italy goes on holiday is on until September 25
the outside installation is on until August 28

Neve de Latte
Via Luigi Poletti 6
closed Tuesdays


  1. Hope you are managing to stay cool as the heat looks set to continue for awhile yet.


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