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9.13.2010

Mid-summer on the Amalfi Coast

Mid-summer on the Amalfi Coast

This summer we put the teenager on a plane to his grandmother's in Tennessee and escaped the stifling heat of Rome and headed south for a few days wandering the fabled amalfi coast. 

Here are the details of all the places we loved.

Minori - Quiet and Sweet and Authentic.



Mid-summer on the Amalfi Coast



This is the not the Amalfi Coast of movie stars and boutique shopping. This is the Amalfi coast of gourmet pastry shops and roman ruins. In the evening the seaside boardwalk was busy with celebrations of the patron saint of Trofimena.  

Eat
Sal de Riso - Don't miss the gelato baba al rum. Take home jars of Client figs preserved with walnuts and wild fennel
Giardinello - Fresh anchovies deep filled with Monti Latterini cheese and Neapolitan style pizza were the stars here.

il pontile  - a modern take on traditional amalfi cuisine - dont miss the fish ravioli and a green bean panzanella


Buy 
good luck ceramic donkey (“Il ciucciariello”)from Ceramics Ruocco

Sleep

You have to walk a mighty flight of stairs to get to the Hotel Vinous , but the view, the AC and the breakfast make it worth it.

Amalfi - Early evening cocktails and a foodie shopping spree


Drink
Sit in the piazza at sunset to catch the warm summer light glinting off the gold mosaics of the Duomo.


Eat
Grab a white table clothed table at the formal Pasticceria Pansa and have a Campari with fresh squeezed orange juice and take home a bag of candied ginger, orange and lemon peel.

Buy
Take an evening passigiata with the crowds and buy a bottle of limoncello from la Valle dei Mulini and a bag of paccheri pasta from nearby Gragnano


Positano - Relaxed beachy glamour




Mid-summer on the Amalfi Coast

Yes this is a glamour destination. While we were there, so was Denzel WashingtonTom Ford and Tony Blair, but it has a surprisingly quiet, laid back beach vibe with everyone walking around in beach clothes and flip-flops. Ok, they are chic ones, but still.


Eat and Drink
Grab a cold menabrea beer at La Brezza Net Art Cafe. 
For delicious and cheap take-out pizza as well as Amalfi coast classics Saraceno D'oro is the best meal deal in town.

Buy
Sandals from Safari and your own chic cover up from any of the shops lining the narrow streets leading down to the beach. Antico Sartoria has an impressive, affordable selection.







Sleep
Located up the hill in Fornillo, Pensione Maria Luisa is a quiet hideaway  with rustic charm and a million dollar view for under €100. Clean and comfortable but no AC. Be prepared for a long or stair-filled walk to the beach and the action.


Private Escape
Take the boat with the red fish and winsome captain to the black pebbled cove of Laurito.

Lounge the day away under an umbrella and have a barefoot fishy lunch with ice cold jugs of white wine and peaches.

Capri - Song of the Sirens and a Grown-up Playground





Capri is breathtaking beauty at every turn. Skip the daytrippers crowd clogging the Piazzetta, (save that for when the last ferry has left and have a spritz at the Grande Caffe) and head straight to Marina Piccolo making a few important stops along the way.


Eat
Capri energy drink - quite possible the best drink I have ever had. A scoop of slushy icy lemon granita is drenched in fresh squeezed orange juice.
Da Luigi - A formal spot above the beach club. Expensive but delicious grilled fish and fresh salads.
The bar at the bus stop in marina piccolo will make a fresh Caprese panini to order.

In Marina Grande before you leave stop at Il Gelato al Limone for artisanal lemon granita and gelato and torte Caprese for the ferry ride home. 

Shop
Carthusia - Legendary perfume shop. Fill a pretty shopping bag with affordable soaps and candles and perfume.

Lounge
The captivating Faraglioni rocks are the iconic image of Capri and a perfect spot to spend the hottest part of the day on the rocks beside the crystal clear, cool turquoise water. You have two choices Da Luigi or Fontelina

Capri Beach Clubs
Capri Beach Clubs

For La Fontelina catch the boat from the Scoglio delle Sirene(€ 3 per person for boat €36 for 2 beach chairs.)for Da Luigi you can catch a boat from the legendary beach club La Canzone del Mare
( €5 per person for boat €49 for 2 sunbeds and umbrella)

Sleep
At the charming, perfectly located Hotel Tosca. Do every single thing the equally charming Ettore tells you to do. 

Beauty and Wonder
Take in the soaring views of the many many yachts parked in the marina piccola and impossibly colored seas from any of these spots.

Augustus Gardens
via Krupp - a long and winding walk from the la piazzeta to Marina Piccolo

via Tragara - take the 300+ meter climb down to the beach clubs at the foot the faraglioni rocks.




This guide book (in italian) was spot on for every single recommendation we tried 
www.nileguide.com/destination/naples



For more information about the Amalfi Coast download my ebook Amalfi Coast Essentials. 




5 comments :

  1. And now I'm homesick... I may live in Rome, but my heart is on the Costiera.

    This wonderful account of a perfect vacation was sopt on, Gillian, and so helpful, packed with great info. COMPLIMENTI!

    And thank you for linking to my Laurito article on The Travel Belles too!

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  2. Congratulations on making the italy tutto top ten this week :)

    My sentiments are the same as those of Eleonora. We live in the Viterbo region but have had a long relationship with the Amalfi coast.
    Throughly enjoyed this account and it looks like I have found another Italy blog to read.

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  3. Ciao Gillian! I just saw this post on the italytutto top 10 list and HAD to click over. LOVE your Amalfi Coast list! Sounds like you really experienced life on the Amalfi Coast and saw a lot while you were here. Thanks for sharing!

    Ciao from the Amalfi Coast!
    Laura @ Ciao Amalfi

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  4. Why hadn't I seen this before? Completely agree with your choices. You took a picture of the unpainted house where my husband grew up (from Maria Luisa Pensione). We now live next door down the steps :)

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  5. lovely report : I agree with you about Antica Sartoria, picked up some gorgeous flowery print dresses and shirts in their Amalfi shop only 10 euro each...end of season sales. Noticed that they are now done in India....

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