A few weeks ago we were headed for a late morning dip at terme di papi and all the exits were blocked by fierce looking gardia di finanzia and carbinieri. It turned out there was nothing nefarious happening, just a bike race...but that still meant we had about an hour before the road to the hot springs would be open again.
So we took our visitor on an unexpected short detour to Viterbo, the ancient Etruscan city of popes and kings. It was a Sunday so the streets were quiet and most shops shuttered...but the medieval streets entertained. We were really just looking for a quick cup of coffee, but first we stumbled upon this treasure trove of epicurean delight...Ejlo.
Now laden with gourmet goodies from the region of Tuscia to send back to stateside friends, we headed to the Gran Caffè Schenardi for that ever important coffee! All gold and marble and 19th century ornate, this is one of my favorite spots in Viterbo...which can feel a little gloomy with all that dark grey stone.