Sandwiches for breakfast {Testaccio}

When I first moved to Rome, I was not charmed by the neighborhood markets.  After my years in Zimbabwe, with the currency volatility, the shortages and general difficulties getting the most basic of food items, I just wanted to go to the supermarket. Where the price was fixed, the shelves stocked and the whole experience was reliably predictable.   

So that obviously wore off and I fell in love with the ramshackle Trionfale market when it was still squeezed onto the sidewalks. I slowly warmed to Nuovo Mercato de Esquilino.  When we moved to Monti, the Farmers Market near Circo Massimo became my go to spot for my weekly grocery shopping.  I never spent any time at the Testaccio market.  It was too far from my first neighborhood and just outside of my radar in my new one.  

The new market, which opened this summer has produced much cranky grumbling about the location, the architecture, the cost.  I visited the old Testaccio market in its last days, so I have little to compare.

I love the new space. (Though I will admit to agreeing with a friends assessment that it looks  a little like the scale models that architects make to present a concept to clients.)
On a Saturday morning, it was buzzy and busy with families on bikes and young roman hipsters and old fashioned Roman nonnas.

But I was here for the sandwiches.  Crusty rolls are filled with bollito or tripe or meatballs or straccetti (slices of beef, cherry tomatoes and arugula) The bollito is salty and delicious and not to be missed. 

Nearby is a very pretty stand with cakes and pastries.  On the day we visited they had carrot cake and lemon poppyseed.

I will have to visit again soon to do some grocery shopping. 

A Roman road in the middle of the market
If you only get one thing at the market. Make it one of these. 

Pretty Cakes 
Almost time to start thinking about Thanksgiving

Nuovo Mercato Testaccio
Via Galvani and Via Alessandro Volta

Mercato di Campagna Amica del Circo Massimo
Via San Teodoro, 74

Mercato Trionfale
Via Andrea Doria

Nuovo Mercato Esquilino
Via Principe Amedeo 184


  1. Mordi e vai is a GREAT place (and perfect for the likes of me who enjoy a savoury breakfast).

  2. Mmm. I'm not generally a tripe fan, but a crusty, savory breakfast sandwich might change my mind.

  3. @Natalie & Hande, It exceeded all expectations of deliciousness. I have been craving that sandwich all week!

    @Ann I am not a tripe fan either, but if i were to try it, this would be the place. It looked pretty fantastic.


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