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Festival Time {Sagra in Lazio}

All over southern Italy, all summer long there are festivals - Sagras. We are usually a day early or a date late. In every single town we visit. We now joke that when we see the Sagra poster, what town festival are we missing this time?

At a recent stay at the very lovely Villa Torre Alfina we happened to arrive in town on the last day of the annual cinghiale festival. Cinghiale is wild boar. Wild boar is pretty common in this part of Lazio. It is delicious.

The whole thing is very organized. You take a xeroxed sheet and check off what you want to eat and drink, choosing from plates of pappardelle with cinghiale, local beans, glasses of cold local white wine. Pay at the till and then grab a bench and local kids efficiently take care of the rest.

Now we know. These Sagra things are a great way to enjoy a late summer evening in a small village in Lazio.

Save room for some of the best gelato in Lazio from Gelateria Sarchioni.

Even better, book a stay at the Villa and you will have your choice of homemade liqueurs (nocino, wild cherry, limoncello) to pour over your gelato. It tastes even better sitting under the pergola watching a movie on a starry August night.


La Villa Torre Alfina
Via Maria Montessori, No. 8

Gelateria Sarchioni
Viale Piazzale S. Angelo, 36

Read more about Torre Alfina here


A Pilgrimage {Nepi}

Day Trips Near Rome

We are addicts.  

Acqua di Nepi addicts that is.  Many light green bottles of the slightly sweet and fizzy water are carried up the four flights of stairs in our elevator-less apartment building each week.


Positano - {Where to Shop}

Where to shop in Positano

Today’s Positano post is all about shopping.  Most of my time there is usually spent reading a book on a beach under an umbrella, but once the sun goes down, a walk either before or after dinner usually involves a stop or two at one of the many small shops scattered throughout this laid-back beachy town.

Where to shop in Positano

Positano Style is synonymous with a relaxed, slightly hippy-chic. Made popular in the Dolce Vita years by glamourous movie stars, it lives on now for you to adopt as your own in the casual fashion shops in town.  

I love a beach cover-up.  I have a closet full of them. Most of them have come from Antica Sartoria. Much to my husband’s chagrin there are two large outlets one right next door to where we park the car and the other practically on the Spiagga Grande.  There is no escaping. 

Where to shop in Positano


I had walked by the place many a time, thinking it was a little too country casual for me. When I actually went in and looked they had stacks, and I mean stacks, of simple tunics in more pretty prints than I could ever hope to choose from. Think Liberty of London meets Boden. Seriously cute and stylish. 

Where to shop in Positano

There are quite a few places to get the custom made Jacki O-style sandals. My pick is Safari.

In a teensy-tiny space and stacked to the ceiling with sandal pieces, you really can find just about any style you could want here.  From the simplest design of just a few thin leather straps to the most Baroque ornate jeweled heels. There are super comfy summer loafers for the boys too. 

You pick you straps and soles (from flat to kitten heels) and in about an hour you have a new pair of shoes.

Where to shop in Positano

I am a longtime fan of Carthusia Perfume - if you don’t have time to sail over the factory in Capri, there is a small store across from Safari to stock up. 

On my most recent trip I discovered the extensive range of scents L'Eau D'Italia from Emporio Le Sirenuse. There is so much more than gorgeous perfume in the small, perfectly edited shop across from the elegant Hotel Sirenuese. It is pretty much perfect. Beautiful things, in a beautiful space, in one of the most beautiful places in Italy. You will want every. single. thing. You have been warned. 

Where to shop in Positano

I Love Positano - decorate the beach house of your dreams with this store. Bright pillows, candles and tableware are all exactly what you are looking for. 

Where to shop in Positano


When I was in college and all my friends were collecting Deruta pieces from the Georgetown flea market, I fell in love with the naive patterns from the Amalfi coast.  It has taken me a few years (and much global ceramic collecting on my part and heavy luggage carrying on Dear Husbands part) but I have finally started a collection of Positano dinnerware.

There are lots of shops along via Pasitea and via Cristoforo Columbo. They are all good.  I keep going back to the shop across from the Mandara parking garage.  Head through the main shop and it’s tourist wares and to the outside space and browse in peace. 


Antica Sartoria
Piazza dei Mulini 1/3 Via del Brigantino, 11/13

via Pasitea, 44

via Della Tartana, 2

via Della Tartana

Emporio Le Sirenuse
Via Cristoforo Colombo, 30
I Love Positano
Via Pasitea, 91


Chuiso per Ferie

Today is a big holiday in Italy.  Almost everything is closed.  We are off to the beach!

Buon Ferragosto!


Positano {Where to Eat}

where to eat in Positano

Recently I spent almost two weeks in Positano (and few days in Capri.) In a few days all three of us are heading back. It will be the teenager's first trip with us so I have been thinking about what we will do (and eat) while we are there. 

In the next few posts I will give you my lists of my favorite places to eat and lounge and shop in Positano.


Breakfast in Rome {Coromandel}

Breakfast in Rome
Elegant bacon and eggs 

Most mornings find me with a mug of American style coffee in front of my computer. Some days I am still there working until well after lunchtime. I almost never think to go outside for something to eat.

On a recent summer morning, some of my twitter turned In Real Life pals invited me to breakfast at yet another of the recent, swanky, Rome restaurant openings.