48 Hours in Positano
11:30 Beers on the Beach
The drive from Rome to Positano to Rome takes about 4 hours depending on traffic (getting out of Rome is often the worst part) and Autogrill stops. We were having a cold beer at Buca di Baco at the scandalous hour of 11:30 am.
1:30 Healthy Lunch
We met up with Positano Daily Photo for a healthy lunch at Casa e Bottega starting an indulgent weekend off with juices and salads at this very cute cafe. Mixed in with the tables are shelves of pottery in the colors of the sea, table linens, and beach bags all for sale
3:30 - Back to the Beach
The ominous dark cloud stayed on top of the mountain and the water was an incredible turquoise so we joined the day tripper crowds on the free beach and read and napped until the sun dipped behind the mountain.
5:30 - Early Aperitivo
There was time for a quick beer at Paradise Lounge Bar before we headed back up the hill to the hotel and it was also the perfect time of day to enjoy the blue hour.
8:00 Pizza Dinner
We sat by the sea and our watched the waves crash on the pier while we ate chewy crusted Neapolitan style pizza from the bistro at the Covo dei Saraceni hotel.
10:00 - Coffee and Pastries
Collina Positano Bakery, across from the Parcheggio di Gennaro has tiny code di aragosta filled with sweet chantilly cream that are topped with a candied cherry. I had one every morning with my cappuccino.
This cafe has take away coffee and sandwiches and a terrific wine and craft beer selection.
11:00 - Walk to Fornillo
The rough seas meant that all the boats to and from Capri were cancelled. Sadly Holly, from Ristorante Michel'Angelo was stranded on her island. Plan B was a slow stroll over to Fornillo. The guys at bar bagni Da Ferdinando were busy finshing up the beach club for Summer 2016. We sat on a big rock at the very end and hunted for heart shaped stones.
1:30 - Seafood Lunch
Holly's husband had arranged lunch for us all at da Vincenzo Positano and while sad that our Caprese pals were absent we were welcomed like family.
Our lunch started with prosecco and the freshest zucchini flower stuffed with ricotta, anchovies and lemon zest.
This is moscardini deep fried with lemon, garlic and skinny ribbons of chili pepper.
Stay tuned for a full report on my blog soon of every delicious thing we ate here.
4:00 - Shopping Spree
Just a few doors up at number 200 the family who runs da Vincenzo Positano has opened up a home decor shop. This is a perfectly curated collection of some of Italy's prettiest and most delicious things. Linens from Tablecloths.it (including a line printed with the famous Vietri ceramics) olive wood rolling pins, Colatura from Acquapazza -Cetara-, cookbooks and totebags. Make room in your suitcase.
10:00 Linger over Coffee
The gray weather that had been threatening all weekend showed up in force on Sunday morning. We had a slow cappuccino at La Brezza and watched the fisherman hanging around the port watching the still very rough sea.
12:00 Head up the Mountain
Since it was absolutely NOT a beach day we decided to go to the very top to the tiny village of Nocelle, passing Montepertuso along the way.
These two towns are part of the famous Sentiero Deli Dei Dio (Path of the Gods) that we keep saying we will do one day. The fog was really thick and there were moments when we really couldn't see anything in front of us.
The road from Montepertuso to Nocelle is very narrow and twisty. If you are the slightest bit nervous driving on the Amalfi Coast road walk or take the bus up here.
When we sat down in front of the large picture windows at Ristorante Santa Croce it was a gray bank of fog. Perfect weather for my favorite Neapolitan dish, Genovese. Genovese is a slow cooked onion and beef stew that is served over pasta. This restaurants verision was studded with tiny pieces of smoked cheese.
The fog cleared and we finished out meal gazing out at sea and Positano far below us.
After we twisted back down the mountain we made one last stop before the drive back to Rome at one of the roadside stands. Right now these stands are sell in seaon Amalfi lemons, Piennola tomatoes, cherries, apricots and peaches.
These are not the cheapest lemons you will buy, but the view while you shop is worth it.