Old Habits

carciofi romana 
We are a family of habits.  If we like something, we tend to do that same thing over and over (and over again).  We have been going to the same beach in Delaware for 15 years, (the same week even)  We watch the same movie every Christmas Eve. We eat at the same table at a favorite restaurant. Every time.  

You get the idea.

Rome is a great place for this behavior.  Romans, like us, tend to frequent the same places over decades, generations even.

Six years ago when we were moving to Rome, old friends showed us around their favorite neighborhood places.  Il Scarpone, in Monteverde, was one of the very first restaurants we had a meal in our new city.  We were jet lagged and overwhelmed and I remember little other than excitement of our friends over the first bowls of cherries of the season and the smell of jasmine.  Being creatures of habit, now, if we find ourselves in Monteverde at dinnertime, this is where we eat. 

I don't spend much time in Monteverde and when I am up there it is usually for lunch at The American Academy.  Last night after a very thought provoking talk we found ourselves hungry for dinner and discussion.  As tradition demanded it was dinner at Il Scarpone, an old school Roman spot. This means a vast space, brightly lit, slightly surly waiters.  I love it here.

Traditional pastas, pizza and grilled meats are all good here.  The house wine is decent and the desserts classic and fresh.  In the summer there is a pretty vine covered garden to sit.  Oh and a rarity in Rome, plenty of parking. 

a decent house red

grilled meat is a star here

last of the fragiolini 

Il Scarpone
via San Pancrazio 15 

06 581 4094 

Become a friend of The American Academy in Italy here


  1. I've walked past the entrance many times on my way into Villa Pamphili but have never stopped to eat! We will have to try it sometime. Thanks for making me notice it again.

  2. I went there once with a bunch of Italian friends of a friend. They were so excited to eat there. I had seen the restaurant on my way to workout in Villa Pamphili but knew nothing about it.

    I need to return. The food was delicious.


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