The People You Meet in Rome {Non-Catholic Cemetery}

One of our family favorite activities on a Sunday afternoon in Rome is a wander in the Non-Catholic Cemetery in Testaccio.  We particularly love it in winter.  I know, it is more picturesque and colorful in the spring and early summer, but even on the grayest of winter gloom, this space is a transporting haven of green and peace.  But we really don't know much about it, preferring to dip in and out at our own pace.

Rome is filled with interesting characters and hidden talents.  Pretty much everyone you meet here has an interesting backstory; The tour guide who is a concert pianist, the woman at the morning coffee is a stand-up comic, the star of the play an accomplished lawyer, all making their way in Rome. At one of the many festive holiday parties we were lucky enough to be invited to over the Christmas holidays, we met a noted scholar, author, archeologist who just so happens to also love the Non-Catholic Cemetery, and generously offered to give us a tour. 

In the drizzle we learned the stories behind how Oscar Wilde felt about Shelly's Grave, Confederate heroes, and the most copied statue in the cemetery. You will have to become a friend, read the very informative newsletters, or book a tour to learn the many secrets and stories this remarkable site hold.  I recommend all three.

If you are hungry after your excursion, you are in the right part of town.  Great restaurant lunch spots are here and hereFor a quick snack, grab a sandwich at the Testaccio market, or a Trapizzino and a great beer at 00100 Pizza or if you are in the mood for something sweet (like a tiny tiramisu in a chocolate cup)  Bar Baberini is the place to go.

Via Caio Cestio, 6
Monday-Saturday from 9.00 am to 5.00 pm (last entrance:4.30 pm)
Sundays and public holidays 9.00 am to 1.00 pm (last entrance:12.30 pm)


  1. Absolutely my favourite place in all of Rome!


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