In (not so) Fair Verona

Valentines day is coming up and this small sweet Italian town is a perfect winter charmer.  you might even get lucky and see it through snowflakes

I was not quite so lucky when I went north with recently with a friend.  It was rain, rain and more rain...it literally did. not. stop.

But that was OK. This would not end being a trip full of culture and walks and views. I made the most of the dreary wet weather and indulged on hearty food and rich wine and a good book. 

The owners of our bed & breakfast, thrilled to discover my traveling companion was married to a Neapolitan took us out for a apertivo as soon as we checked in. 
Flutes of franciacorte & whisper thin slices of prosciutto at Bottiglieria Corsini were a lovely way to start.  

The recommended dinner spot was closed on Monday's so we stopped a lady pulling her market cart in the street and asked for her advice.  She said that she never ate in restaurants but the place we were standing in front of was always busy.

She was right.

The Taverna di via Stella was filling up fast, but we got the last table and quickly ordered a bottle of the regions famous valpolicella. The hearty regional specialty of risotto amarone was perfect as the rain was just starting to fall.  The cheerful waiter made us a plate with a little taste of his favorite desserts.  The pear poached in amarone was the standout.

It rained through the night and was still raining in the morning, but out I headed to see what I could see.  

After a fortifying cappuccino at the sleek Urban Cafe, where the barista greeted everyone by name, I headed to the most famous site in town.

The visiting teenagers were more entertaining to observe than the actual spot. Fictional and  silly maybe, but you can't really visit Verona and not see it. 

In an attempt to stay dry I abandoned the circuit of church's and decided to cafe hop instead.

Fnac has a small selection of english language books downstairs. 
Via Cappello, 34

Alpine Specialties and the famous wafer cookies can be found at Loacker
Cso. S. Anastasia 13

Warm up with a cup of hot chocolate (con panna - of course!)  to go from Venchi

via Mazzini 44

It was now lunchtime. It was still raining.  I ducked into the cozy Osteria Buglioni and found a lone seat at the bar and ordered a big bold glass of amarone to ward off the chill.  the plate of brasato and mashed potatoes helped too. 

The very elegant chocolate shop/cafe Miozza (warning - some serious italian flash-website design here) had shelves full of dolce de fave for the upcoming tutti santi holiday.  I can only imagine what they will prepare for valentines days and carnevale.
Via Armando Diaz, 7/A

Galleria Borsari had some of the prettiest jewelry I have seen in a very long time in this teensy tiny shop.
Via Porta Borsari 20 

Bring home a tiny print of that famous balcony or a colorful map from the historic Antica Tipographia Artistica Arche Scaligere.  There is also a small museum here for typography and print enthusiasts. 
Via S. Maria in Chiavica, 3/c

There was time for one more dinner before we had to take the train back to rome.  we went to the recommended Osteria de Ugo.  Again, more the menu featured hearty fare like onion soup and osso bucco (which was different than the roman one - less tomatoes i suspect) and lots more valpiocella.  

Practicalities

RISTORANTE BOTTIGLIERIA CORSINI
Lg. Div. Pasubio 2 


Taverna di via Stella
Via Stella, 5/C

Urban Cafe

via Alberto Mario 6

Osteria Buglioni 

Corso porta Borsari 17A

Osteria da Ugo 

Vicolo Dietro S. Andrea 1/b 

Lovely write-up of Verona by Amanda Ruggeri of Revealed Rome here. 

A good itinerary for sunnier days found here 

Take a virtual trip on this photoblog Verona Daily Photo