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2.14.2019

Where to Eat in Ostiense; Breakfast, Lunch and Dinner

Where to Eat in Ostiense; Breakfast, Lunch and Dinner

Where to Eat in Ostiense; Breakfast, Lunch and Dinner

Ostiense is a neighborhood literally on the other side of the tracks. Don’t let that scare you though. You will find it just on the other side of Rome’s astonishing 3rd-century pyramid on the other side of Testaccio. 

There are three new, new in a Roman sense anyway, spots that I have been visiting regularly and I think that you should too. 

No matter what time of day your appetite strikes there is something to hit the spot. 


Where to Eat in Ostiense; Breakfast, Lunch and Dinner

Marigold
Via Giovanni da Empoli, 37
Closed Monday

I have said this before, I am not much of a breakfast eater. I have a cup of coffee, a long walk and a yoga class to start my day. Marigold has made me change my ways. This new venture is the realization of a long-held dream of Danish Sophie and Italian Domenico. You may remember those names from their delightful pop-up dinners or from lunches at the American Academy where Domenico was a chef. 

The spare sun-soaked space has coffee and print copies of the New York Times. And avocado toast. The long bar is filled with trays of iced carrot cake and chocolate chip scones fresh out of the oven. The sourdough bread and house-made salted butter is sublime. On weekends there is brunch. Real brunch with waffles and eggs Benedict. Make sure you take home a few cinnamon rolls (they freeze very well) and a loaf of seeded bread.


re to Eat in Ostiense; Breakfast, Lunch and Dinner

re to Eat in Ostiense; Breakfast, Lunch and Dinner

Oresteria at Eataly
Piazzale 12 Ottobre 1492
Lunch and Dinner

For most of the year to try dishes like Trito di Orata marinata al pepe, lime ed avocado and coniglio Ponzese you have to make your way to the island of Ponza. Until the end of March, there are no sea crossings required, just an escalator ride to the second floor of Eataly where Oresteria has a seasonal Roman home. One entire wall is filled with an image of Ponza’s colorful Bourbon port with the bright winter sun shining through so it almost feels like an island summer afternoon. 


Where to Eat in Ostiense; Breakfast, Lunch and Dinner

Where to Eat in Ostiense; Breakfast, Lunch and Dinner




Trattoria Pennestri
Via Giovanni da Empoli, 5
Dinner only, Closed Monday

On a very rainy and traffic-clogged night in mid-December Marigold threw an early evening opening party and we decided to stay in the neighborhood and have dinner. We tried our luck reservation-less at a place I had heard lots of people praising. The friendly staff at Trattoria Pennestri took our coats and found us a table. We ordered a bottle of Marco Carpineti Cesanese and listened to the specials which made us all reconsider our original choices from the menu. The food here is deeply rooted in the Roman classics, you will find Gricia and coratella but there is the addition of fresh mint or a rich wine sauce. I chose the duck breast which arrived with crispy skin and a tart mirto sauce. For dessert, I had the chocolate mousse which is a rare sight on a Roman menu. The remarkable Italian twist was the crunchy addition of Sardinian pane carasau, rosemary and sea salt. 

Last week I returned with friends and ordered the exact same meal. 


While you are in the neighborhood in-between meals you can visit the Testaccio Market, Centrale Montemartini and the Non-Catholic Cemetery

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